After 1,5 days on Fehmarn (first part of this post) it already felt like a longer holiday. Walking with heavy backbag was a lot better than anticipated. The big question remaining is: will strained Achilles tendons send me home early?
Off I set from Lemkenhafen, after a revitalising extended lunch break the aim was to get to Strukkamphuk at the Southern end of Fehmarn. There I wanted to check fitness level and decide whether to continue walking today or start chilling at a nearby camping site. One of the first beautiful sights was – for a change – not related to water. It was a wonderful field of marguerites (I think – am not a botanical expert), speckled with the occasional red poppy. I was not the only one being impressed by that sight. Two young, pretty girls, standing in the field, enjoyed a photo shooting session with their mobiles.
Fehmarnsundbrücke – long word for a long bridge
The bridge over the Sound of Fehmarn kept coming into sight every now and then. The good news was that it seemed to be getting larger every time it turned up in my view – direction as well as progress were kind of ok, obviously.
I passed a sailing and surfing school, two camping sites and quite a few tourists looking at me with a rather puzzled (or a “this chap is crazy”) look. Lucky me, Strukkamphuk turned up much faster than expected.
So far the walk on dykes as well as small trails along the shore was fantastic. Despite the heat and no cooling shadow around I had an excellent time. I guess this was mainly due to the water, the Baltic Sea nearby, boats sailing past and the light breeze.
Looking strained – but all happy and fine
Just after the 90 degree turn at the “bottom” of Fehmarn, now walking towards Fehmarnsund, I had a little rest and lots of fresh water. I took off my shoes and must have been a rather poor sight. The backbag looked heavy, hiking shoes were off, bandages on both ankles. Well, I might have looked like a strained and pained wanderer, but was not. In fact, both Achilles tendons seemed to be ok for the time being. Also the broken toe did not give any cause for concern either. All good so far.
Second night camping on Fehmarn
Shortly afterwards I crossed below the now so familiar bridge, left it behind and moved along the “other half” of Fehmarn. As walking was still more fun than pain I chose the camping site Wulfener Hals for this night’s stay. More or less surrounded by water it is a windsurfer’s paradise. Lots of families enjoyed the closeness to beach and water as well.
First break plus breakfast after half an hour’s walk
The next morning I managed to pack up even quicker than the day before. I seemed to get used to the routines. First planned stop was Burg, the capital of Fehmarn. Up and down the main street I went to get some postcards, then off into the Café Jedermann to write some lines to the loved ones at home. Plus, I had a wonderful breakfast in a very quiet backyard – brilliant. This morning the bandages were giving my left ankle a hard time, so I took them off and tried walking without them.
Cutting it short, a bit
Without bandages, ankle feeling a bit weird, I did not know how well the next couple of hours of hiking would go. So instead of going directly towards the shore again I chose a route heading North towards Puttgarden. A couple of definitely not very nice kilometres along a busy main road – then I had enough. Enough of the busy main road, not the walking. Achilles tendons and ankles seemed to be ok despite not wearing the bandages. So I turned right towards Bannesdorf and headed towards the Baltic Sea again.
Wind Power is big on Fehmarn
Even more than the two previous days I understood that wind power is big business on Fehmarn. Well, it is quite obvious: wind more or less blowsg constantly all year round. The wind power stations installed on that small island of Fehmarn produce an amazing 380 GWh per year. This means they can supply something like 109.000 households. That is with wind alone. Now add all the solar panels installed on this “island of sunshine”, and you’ll realise the folks on Fehmarn produce a lot more so-called renewable energy than they are actually consuming.
So on I hopped (well…) along the dyke and beach, and made my way North towards Marienleuchte. Closer and closer I got to Puttgarden. A wonderful afternoon it was, with once again lots of sunshine and a refreshing breeze. The last few kilometres away from the coast and towards the ferry terminal and train station were rather dull and boring. But maybe that was just because there was no water in sight. Plus my long awaited hiking trip on Fehmarn neared its end.
Some final thoughts on those three days hiking on Fehmarn
- My backbag was rather heavy (17 kg) due to carrying an old and oversized tent (5 kg) plus some other “heavy” stuff I might change (or simply leave at home) for the next trip.
- Walking for 60-75 minutes and then having a brief break of 10-15 minutes worked perfectly and enabled me to walk something like 20 km a day. So: with a bit more training beforehand and a lighter backpack 25-30 km a day should be easily doable.
- I had underestimated the lack of shadow on dykes. Fortunately it was not too hot yet otherwise it might have become a lot more exhausting.
- All in all I think Fehmarn is a great island for a “round the island trip”. With more than 20 camping sites route planning is fairly easy, or let’s rather say unnecessary. Lots of cycling tourists are a bit of a nuisance, especially on small and narrow trails – but not such a big deal, really.
Would I go again? Yes, definitely. Next time I’d stay 4-5 days and spend more time at the beach, or two nights at one location for a very relaxing chill-out-day.
If you are interested in travelling to Fehmarn and would love to go hiking on that beautiful island, I’d be happy to organise for you whatever you need. Just let me know what your plans are and I am sure you’ll have a pretty good time. There are no up- and downhill challenges, but you can watch and hear the sea for days instead.
This brief hiking trip has been sponsored by my personal wallet only. If you would like to help getting my energy levels up again and to keep tea and fruits turning up on my breakfast table, please contact me. I will pass on my payment details to you – and, believe it or not, any amount will be highly appreciated. Many thanks!!
A few more impressions: